MY "TEN SPEEDS"

 

 

 

MY "TEN SPEEDS"

 

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MY "TEN SPEEDS"  

HEADSET REBUILD - INTRO

DISASSEMBLE HEADSET

CLEAN & INSPECT

INSTALLING THE HEADSET

ADJUSTING THE HEADSET

 

INSTALLING THE VINTAGE HEAD SET

Though everything goes back into place in reverse order, assembly is not simply a matter of reversing one's disassembly steps.  Again, a trick or two will help both with head set installation and tuning when the time comes.

Begin by installing the appropriate bearing races into the frame set's head tube.  I do not have the proper tool to complete this task but it is not all that difficult to do with some pretty ordinary tools, much the same as when the races were removed.

Using a hammer and a block of hard wood, fit a race into the appropriate frame cavity.  If everything is as is should be, the race will not fit.  It is too big for the hole into which it is to be inserted.  The race must be forced into its fit in what is referred to as an "interference fit".  If the race were the same size as the hole or even small, then it would have a tendency to rotate right along with the steering stem.  Such rotation would wear the frame set out in short order.

As you are impacting each race into place, be as careful as you can to insert the race evenly or squarely into the fit.  Getting things too out of whack can actually damage the delicate bearing races, perhaps causing them to become out of round or worse.

With the races installed in the frame set, turn your attention to the forks.  Install the crown cover if there is one and then slip the fork bearing race into place.  The race will slide easily all the way to the small shoulder at the fork crown and steering tube junction.  The race will have to be impacted squarely into place on the shoulder and ensuring that there is no gap between it and the fork crown.  If a crown cover is mounted, ensure that the cover is not loose once the bearing race has been installed.

Install each race completely.  Ensure that it is bottomed out into its fit.  Look at the joint where the race meets the frame.  Is the gap closed?  If not more impact is required to complete the installation.

Now begin installing individual ball bearings by first smearing a thick layer of grease into the bearing cups.  Imbed one ball bearing at a time into this grease until all ball bearings are in place.  There should be room enough left to install one more ball bearing but do not do so.  The space is important and must remain.  Install an extra ball, and using up the free space could well cause the bearing assemble to function improperly.

After imbedding the balls into each bearing cup, turn your attention to the bearing cones and smear them with a light coating of grease.  You want to ensure that the complete bearing run area is covered with grease right from the start.  This will help to ensure smooth start up.  It is a small issue but there is a general rule involved.  A bearing must live in a world of lubricant.  Without proper lubrication, the bearing will live a short life.

With the bearings securely stuck to the races with grease, the next part of the rebuild task is simply a reversal of the disassembly stage.

Ensure that the bearing "cone" installed on the forks steering tube is coated with a bit of grease.  Now carefully guide the fork steering tube into the head tube of the bicycle.  Try to avoid knocking any of the bearings loose from their location.  Ensure that the top race, the one that threads onto the fork steering tube, is with-in easy reach.

Holding the forks in place with one had, thread the top bearing filled race into place until is gently bottoms out.  Now loosely install the lock nut, appropriate washers and/or brake guide brackets.  Finally, thread the top nut into place and the task is complete for the time being.  The head set bearings will be subjected to final adjustment after the front brake calliper is installed and functioning.  And after that final adjustment, the head set can be locked into place with the lock nut.

NEXT - ADJUSTING THE VINTAGE HEAD SET

 

 

 

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